Northern Moldova

Drinking with the Dead. A Religious Celebration in the Town of Soroca

Soroca is a town in North East Moldova, sitting at the border with Ukraine. It is home to a large community of Moldovan Roma people. In some neighbourhoods, it is possible to see luxurious, multi-storey mansions belonging to the wealthiest Roma families, since it is a sign of social distinction to invest money in real estate.

Bizarre decoration motifs on wrought-iron railings and gates are ubiquitous, often enormous in size and somehow incongruous in such a small and otherwise humble town. It is however not uncommon that the houses are left half-finished and uninhabited for most of the year, as the owners of these extravagant houses work abroad, mostly in Russia and Ukraine.

After the mass, the congregation moves to the nearby cemetery, having a picnic beside the graves of the deceased relatives, leaving food and drinks on the gravestones as an offering to the dead.

The Church of Sfantul Teodor Stratilat is located upon a hill on the eastern flank of the town, an area predominantly inhabited by Roma. Each sixth of August of the Julian calendar, an important religious celebration takes place here: the Transfiguration of Jesus (Schimbarea la Fata a Domnului Isus), which is one of the twelve main religious events in the Orthodox calendar.

According to the Gospels, Jesus ascended Mount Tabor with three apostles and became irradiated by light, transcending his human nature and meeting prophets Moses, Elijah, and God himself. In the Christian tradition, the Transfiguration symbolises the unity of Jesus’ human and divine nature. Large numbers of people attend the mass, waiting for the blessings of fruits, vegetables, and food by the priest. The blessing represents the final transfiguration of the whole creation in Christ.

After the mass, the congregation moves to the nearby cemetery, having a picnic beside the graves of the deceased relatives, leaving food and drinks on the gravestones as an offering to the dead. It is essential to eat and drink as the dead are symbolically receiving the food and beverages through their relatives’ bodies. It is therefore important to not leave them hungry or thirsty. The mass is a joyful event for the locals, who are eager to share the day with their family in remembrance of their loved ones.